Knowledge handed down

«A roof made of stone slates from Val Fex lasts forever. A modern tiled roof has to be replaced every 20 years.» Few people know as much about the stone roofs of traditional Engadine houses in Sils and the Val Fex as Claudio Meuli. His grandfather worked in the Cheva Plattas da Fex quarry where the much sought-after mica slates come from. Today, Claudio Meuli is the third generation of his family to run a roofing business in Sils. «It’s a labour of love. As craftsmen we not only conserve traditional building materials but also preserve time-honoured knowledge. We’re the guardians of traditions going back centuries.»

From the past but for the future

Traditional crafts in Sils are not consigned to history, they also have a future. They are a prime example of how modern sustainability can be achieved. Reusing existing materials is a matter of routine for Claudio Meuli, as this approach has always been used in construction in Engadine: «No slate slab is ever discarded. We turn old roofs into new ones – or sometimes into elegant floors for kitchens or hallways.» The durability of this method is highlighted by the construction dates of the impressive houses found along Via da Marias and in the Val Fex. Some even pre-date the Sils village by-laws first laid down in 1591.  

Everything under one roof

Over the centuries, typical Engadine houses have developed from simple dwellings accommodating people and cattle into splendid farmhouses. The builders had to bring everything under one roof – the stables, hayloft, manure storage and living space for several generations. Work was carried out in the ‘Sulèr’, a large, windowless room on the ground floor. This was a type of inner courtyard adjoining the stable barn (Talvo).

The occupants’ quarters included the living room (Stüva) and the vaulted kitchen (Chadafö); the only heated rooms on the ground floor. The brick-built parlour stove and the tiled stove were not the only sources of heat as warmth was also provided by the cattle and the manure storage facility in the basement. This would be classed as highly energy efficient nowadays. Natural light was also used very efficiently. The sides of each of the small window bays were angled so as to allow as much light into the building as possible.

Function and beauty

What people today find so fascinating about traditional Engadine houses is not just their functional aspects but also their great beauty. The façades were adorned by distinctive sgrafitto ornamental decoration. The windows and doors were also embellished with elaborate forged metal decorations. Inside, simple wood carvings create a homely atmosphere. «As craftsmen we bring together function and beauty,» explains Andri Clalüna, a carpentry apprentice from Sils.

Andri is learning his father’s trade. And like his father, he has already made several Engadine chests. «That’s also something we learn at vocational college, which helps to preserve our local style.» Part of this style is a room called the ‘Stüva’ – a parlour lined with calming Swiss pine and furnished with Engadine wooden furniture. «The pine we use – freshly cut at a particular time in the lunar calendar – is sourced locally. Old wood is reused whenever possible so that our craft creates a connection between past and present.»

Tips to experience the traditional local crafts

• Dine at an ‘Arvenstube’
  Enjoy a cosy meal in an authentic Arvenstube restaurant at the Hotel Maria, Parkhotel Margna or Hotel Sonne Fex. Good food meets a warm ‘baingvnieu a Segl’. www.sils.ch/en/restaurants
• Discover the history of Val Fex slate
  The impressive experience museum at Alp da Segl is housed in former horse stables and provides visitors with an insight into the history of the ‘Cheva Plattas da Fex’ quarry. The Val Fex stone slabs were quarried just 15 minutes away from the Alp in the cold of winter. A range of tours with expert guides is available in summer. www.plattas-da-fex.ch
• Admire Engadine furniture
  Discover all sorts of fascinating things about the local wood, how it is worked and the furniture made in-house during a tour of the ‘Clalüna’ carpentry workshop (guided tours from June 2021). www.schreinerei-claluena.ch
• Stone, gold and much more
  Engadine goldsmiths will create individual, unique pieces of jewellery for you. Swiss rock strata with a variety of colour shades are also used. www.engadingold.ch
• Val Fex Damascus steel knife
  In Val Fex, Roger Rominger, the master bladesmith, transforms iron ore into unique blades to create glistening Damascus steel knives. www.fexer.ch
• A little memento
  Take a piece of Sils home with you. You’ll find no end of attractive and authentic items to keep your holiday memories alive on a leisurely shopping trip in Sils.. www.sils.ch/en/shopping